Anepalco's Funky Chilaquiles
From the great SanTana blog zauberhour.wordpress.com
Just came back from eating the chilaquiles at Anepalco's Cafe in Orange, and I can see the promise but can't yet give it hosannas. The chilaquiles purist in me cannot stand manifestations of the dish as masa mush, and these were softer than a pancake. My inner gourmand enjoyed a perfect cuatro-layer of cotija cheese, eggs over-easy, avocado mousse and crema fresca: salty, sweet and salty-sweet, oh my! So the deciding factor was the chef's unique "salsa" for the dish: an orange pool of what looked like the halfway point between chorizo grease and Chinese hot oil sauce.
The verdict? No. This sauce had a flavor, but nothing that complemented the other ingredients in the meal. Worse, its after-effects consisted of a wasabi-like nose singe, a chili belly, yet no heat on the palate to savor. It's not a dish I'll try again, but I might return to Anepalco's due to an eclectic menu (cochinita pibil, crepes, AND gourmet sandwiches? Interesting...). But work on that salsa, owners: I appreciate creativity, but bad is bad.
And the orange juice? Stale.
Anepalco's Cafe, 415 S. Main St., Orange, (714) 771-2333; www.anepalcoscafe.com. Their coffee is supposedly great, but I don't drink caffeine.
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