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"Shrimp and cheese?" asked my Italian coworker when I suggested Los Corales for lunch. His incredulity aside, the taco gobernador, a specialty of the Mexican states bordering the shrimp-rich Sea of Cortez, is a great thing to order at SanTana's best seafood lonchera, at least when you're not ordering aguachile.
Something about the combination of shrimp and Oaxaca cheese just works together. At Los Corales, they let some of the shredded cheese fall out as they griddle the tacos, which leads to crusty brown bits of toasted queso being pressed into the tortilla. It's as addictive as any hard drug, but cheaper and better for you.
You have to know to order them, because the pictures on the side of the lonchera are so faded it's hard to tell what they are, but they make them by the dozen every day, and on a hot day in the SanTana sun, they're just what el doctor ordered.
Mariscos Los Corales, Pine St. just west of Main St., Santa Ana; 714-713-1770.
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