58. Volcan at Tacos Ruben y Mulitas

58. Volcan at Tacos Ruben y Mulitas

If you're headed to the Tacos Ruben y Mulitas truck (parked in SanTana on either Bishop and Main during the day or behind the Pep Boys near First and Main at night), chances are, you're likely ordering an

oozing, gooey muilita

or tacos al pastor on handmade corn tortillas.

These items are wonderful, as are the paltry prices, but if you're a Ruben's fanatic and find yourself always coming back for more, you'll eventually tire of these staples and stray toward the more intriguing menu items. Once we found the volcán, a sort of super sope, we nearly forgot about everything else that's available.

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Corn masa is flattened out to the width of a CD and pressed up around the edges so the doughy disc has a lip to hold in the ingredients. The base gets a run through the fryer before the toppings are loaded on. A splatter of creamy pinto beans and a handful of crumbly, tangy queso cotija become the glue for a steaming pile of lean, salt-lick-salty cecina de res. The sodium is counterbalanced by a heap of pickled red onions that have a sweet-tart pucker more indicative of sour orange juice than straight-up lime. A generous sprinkle of Mexican oregano adds a herbal finish to the forceful flavors.

Sometimes the shell isn't crisp enough. Sometimes the volcan comes with chips (the better to scoop up the spillover with), and other times with just grilled onions. Half the time you do get the chips they're cold. The consistency is spotty, but if you're lucky enough that everything lines up just right, you're in for one of the best bites you'll find on any lonchera around.

The list:

59. The Burger at ARC 60. Chocolate Chip Cookie at Crave 61. Lime Curd At Playground 62. Every Damn Thing at Mochi Cream 63. Most Things at Devilicious Donuts 64. Robiola Bosina at Provisions Market 65. Bite-Sized Stinky Tofu at Tofu King 66. Tacos Dorados at Tortas Ahogadas Los Primos 67. Tlacoyo at El Rincon Chilango 68. Whole Pig Roast at Haven Gastropub 69. Chingaderas at Smoqued BBQ 70. The Continuous Ramen Chronicles at The Playground 71. Shrimp & Grits at Slapfish 72. Bacon Cotton Candy at Biggy's Meat Market 73. Urban 3b at Urban Seoul 74. Waffles & Chicken from The Slummin' Gourmet & Waffles de Liege 75. Ahi Tuna Tartar at Nieuport 17 76. Chicken Wings at Hashigo Korean Kitchen 77. Brussels Sprouts Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza 78. Breakfast Sausage Hash at Thasos Greek Island Grille 79. Chocolate Doughnut with Jacobsen Sea Salt at Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee 80. Loco Moco Dog at Dogzilla 81. Fruit Tart at Le Croissant Dore 82. Daing Na Bangus (Marinated Milkfish) Silog Breakfast at Chowking 83. Strawberry Basil Lemonade at Mick's Karma Bar 84. Lemongrass Chicken Salad at Greenleaf Gourmet Chopshop 85. Tofu Soup at Tasty Thai 86. Take-Out Dim Sum at Capital B.B.Q. and Dim Sum Express 87. Hodo Gwaja at Cocohodo 88. Popcorn Chicken Salad at Guppy House 89. Fried Okra at Memphis Soul Cafe & Bar 90. Salted Egg With Bitter Melon & Scrambled Egg at Tasty Noodle House 91. Boysenberry Lemonade from Bautista Creek Local Produce at SOCO Farmers' Market 92. Scallop Carpaccio with Curry Oil and Yuzu Vinaigrette from Cafe Hiro 93. White Board Specials at Taco Adobe 94. Coney Dog at LinX 95. Halal Pizzas from San Giovanni Pizzas 96. Clayuda at El Fortín 97. Lunch Buffet at Dosa Express 98. The Meats at Darya in Orange 99. Panocha at Taquería Zamora 100. Bean-and-Cheese Burrito from Del Taco

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