43. Salade Niçoise at Bistro Papillote
Bistro Papillote's non-traditional salade niçoise
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I was describing chef Laurent Brazier's salmon-based take on salade niçoise to a French friend recently, and she paused. I knew it was coming: The Sniff. Sure enough, she made a sudden sucking sound, and I repeated the description.
"Sans le thon, ce n'est pas une vraie salade niçoise," she sniffed again. No tuna? Not a niçoise salad.
I don't care. It's grilled salmon, roasted peppers, green beans, steamed potatoes, olives (Kalamata, not niçoises), tomatoes, hard-cooked egg, lettuce and olive oil. The flavors are delicate: this is not some spicy Asian-influenced dish, but the perfect hot-weather light lunch with some bread and butter.
Tradition? As long as it tastes good, la tradition, je m'en fous.
Inside the OC Mix, 3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa; 949-375-0749.
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