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Subject: Vietnamese Food and Cooking
Irvine's Saigon Grille Becomes Pho Ha Noi
Throw a stick anywhere in Westminster and it'll hit a pho joint. Not so in Irvine, where Vietnamese restaurants are as rare as the slices of steak in the soup they serve. At my last count, there are exactly five eateries that serve this foul-weather food. The stalwarts are the two Pho Bac Ky's and the Pho 99 on Jeffrey. But the rest changes hands more often than a basketball. The latest to get passed is Saigon Grille, which enters the open court as Pho Ha Noi, managed by the same people w
February 24, 2008Benley is Vietnamese food with an asterisk
First things first: if you are Vietnamese or otherwise familiar with the culinary terrain and back alleyways of Little Saigon, stop reading right now. If you do not heed this warning, I will not be responsible for the damage your spit-take will do to your computer screens. The restaurant I'm about to review is not meant for you. It's cut from the same cloth as The Slanted Door in San Francisco, and Crustacean in Beverly Hills; places that charge $8.95 for a bowl of pho without batting an eye,
July 13, 2008Pho Cures All, Especially Pho Hien Vuong
HACK! SPLUT! COUGH! Sorry for the non-blogging 'round these parts, folks, but HACK! HACK! ACHOO! I got a nasty cold-turned-into-fever from visiting Minnesota earlier this week PHLEGM MUCUS BARBARA COE. Turns out my Weekly keeper, Nick Schou, was also sick, so we hit up our favorite remedy yesterday: the pho at Pho Hien Vuong in SanTana. This small restaurant does not offer the best pho in Little Saigon--you'll have to tune into our coming Best of issue for that--but it is reputedly the first pl
October 3, 2008This Hole-in-the-Wall County
Orange Countys 74 Greatest Holes-in-the-Wall
July 15, 2004Grub Guide
July 13, 2006Grub Guide
July 20, 2006[This Hole-in-the-Wall Life] Five-Napkin Pho at Pho Vie II
October 16, 2008[This Hole-in-the-Wall Life] Pork Power at Banh Mi Ba Le in Westminster
December 25, 2008In Garden Grove, Thien An's Meat-Heavy Meals Are More Like Belly-Busting Endurance Contests
December 11, 2008[This Hole-In-the-Wall Life] Where the Clucker Is Queen: Pho Dakao
September 11, 2008[Food Issue 2008] For Our Recessionary Times, 54 Orange County Meal Deals Between 99 Cents and $15
August 7, 2008[This Hole-in-the-Wall Life] Pho Your Health at Pho Cali
June 19, 2008[This Hole-In-the-Wall Life] Vital Viet Vittles at Tan Hoang Huong Bakery
March 13, 2008Broken rice at Com Tam Tran Quy Cap in Fountain Valley
February 14, 2008Letters
'Normally, writers of your muckracking calibur would drop the context out of a quote, but you actually left it in. Thanks for doing half the job for me'
January 17, 2008This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
November 15, 2007Grub Guide
January 25, 2007This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
June 28, 2007This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
February 15, 2007Cock & Bull
August 10, 2006Grub Guide
July 6, 2006This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
January 11, 2007Grub Guide
November 2, 2006Grub Guide
September 14, 2006Grub Guide
July 27, 2006What the Pho?
April 6, 2006Stately Soup
February 9, 2006This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
December 8, 2005Westminster
October 20, 2005The Asian Persuasion
July 14, 2005Banh Mi, Dont Be a Hero
Trawling for the countys best Vietnamese sandwiches
March 24, 2005Banh Cuon Hong Mai
September 16, 2004This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
December 25, 2003Five Delicious Dac Biets
October 9, 2003Temple of Tofu
April 10, 2003Hu, Mi?
December 12, 2002Battle of the Hot Sauces!
September 19, 2002Mmmmmm, Subjugation
June 13, 2002Pho-buloso!
January 17, 2002[Hole in the Wall] Bánh Mì Déjà Vu All Over Again at Nhu Lan Bakery
April 30, 2009The New York Times Discovers Sriracha
A candidate for Stuff White People Like...Of all of America's wonderful ethnic cuisines, the New York Times understands Vietnamese creations the least. Last month or so, the Gray Lady published a piece on how Vietnamese-American chefs in New York were reinventing the bánh mì, an article that appeared a couple of months after the paper declared 2009 was "the year" of the bánh mi. As I noted in my review of Garden Grove's Nhu Lan Bakery, the Vietnamese sandwich is so 2002--always a delight, yes
May 20, 2009Now Open at The District: Asian Mint
Edwin GoeiI've never been so relieved in being so wrong. As it turns out, Asian Mint at the District has no affiliation whatsoever with the Asian Mint's in Texas, as I previously guessed. It is, in fact, a straight-up Vietnamese restaurant, not a Thai-sushi hybrid like their Lone Star State doppelgangers.They opened for business two days ago. And the dining room is quite the looker. It is, perhaps, too good. In my experience with Vietnamese restaurants, there is an inverse relati
May 21, 2009This Week In Food
This week in SAFII:There was plenty of good news, in terms of appointments (Craig Strong as Executive Chef of Studio, at the Montage Laguna Beach), openings (a froyo shop--natch--a gelato shop attached to a Thai restaurant (of course!!) and a sparkly Vietnamese) and resurrections (Carl's Jr's Portobello Mushroom Six Dollar Burger, no less).Meanwhile, Gustavo got all hot and bothered about the New York Times's article on Sriracha sauce, pointing out that the paper's coverage of Vietnamese food tr
May 22, 2009The Other Other White Meat at Zen Vegetarian
June 25, 2009Top Five Lunch Trucks I'd Like To See Roving Orange County
Edwin Goei After my friends and I saw the ridiculously long line at the Kogi stop in Costa Mesa this past Saturday, we turned around and left to have some Taco Mesa. But I got to thinking, what other foods might do well in Orange County via lonchera (other than tacos, which are already a staple)? A quick internet search yielded these five, which has not yet roamed Orange County streets, and probably never will. 1. What the Pho Truck - Being so close to Little Saigon we probably don't
August 17, 2009Vietnamese Cajun Crawfish With Funnel Cake for Dessert: Thank You, Q Restaurant
September 24, 2009Dueling Dishes: Aioli Smackdown?
The Crow Bar's cool-as-hell logo...Few culinary trends annoy me more than the spread of aiolis (pun intended)--just seeing the term on most any menu is a tell that the chef imagines himself to be some high-falutin', fusion-y maestro who's going to blow you away with something that's really glorified mayo. Screw that--give me Sriracha or some mustard. But last week, I had the chance to taste two exemplary version of the condiment, each superb, each unexpected. The first one was at Phans55 in
September 17, 2009Damn You, Lee's Sandwiches!
Good bánh mì choice for the Iowans; for everyone else, try Bánh Mì Cho Cu or Ba Le...I hadn't been to Lee's Sandwiches in years, but ended up there last week after giving a lecture at UC Irvine. I gasped at the $2.75 price for a bánh mì, but still enjoyed the xa xiu selection, even if the baguette was a bit too hard. I also bought that green Vietnamese waffle made with some type of coconut-spiked green batter, and a pineapple sinh to (smoothie) that gave me too many brain freezes to cou
October 22, 2009[Hole in the Wall] Throw Pho Quang Trung's Chicken Pho Before Swine (Flu)
October 22, 2009Business Week On Subway's $5 Footlong Success
Fascinating article in Business Week this week about Subway's stumbling into the goldmine that is their current $5 footlong sub deal -- a promotion that started as a lark at an "obscure Miami franchise" and has grown to give the chain $3.8 billion in sales. This is the kind of story professors use as case studies in business school. Coincidentally, about the same day the article came out, I was also drawn to the cheapness. Because it's really all about the cheapness, isn't it? But frankly
November 13, 2009
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