Subject:

Mexican Food and Cooking

  • Blogs

    March 17, 2010

    A Tale of Two Chimayós: The Real Deal and the HB Travesty

    ​I'm currently in New Mexico to research for my coming book on the history of Mexican food in the United States. One of the chapters will deal with the Southwestern cooking phenomenon that spread across the country during the late 1980s and early 1990s and has now largely disappeared to the point ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 31, 2010

    Why Gustavo Ate at El Torito Grill in Fashion Island for Free

    ​Usually, I avoid media dinners because that means I have to rub elbows with PR hacks and the reporters who reprint everything they tell them to, and because accepting free meals doesn't sit well with me, and is something I've never done for any Weekly print review I've ever written. And I always ... More >>

  • Food

    April 22, 2010

    Taqueria Morelos: Thy Name Is True

    [Hole in the Wall] This Garden Grove eatery actually does serve Morelian specialties

  • Blogs

    May 20, 2010

    ¡Ask a Comida Critic! Whither OC Cochinita Pibil?

    ​I lost the email, so I'll paraphrase:Hey, cabrón! Peña's Restaurant in SanTana closed--pinche chingadera!-- so where can I get my cochinita pibil fix?A word on Peña's before we move on the the respuesta: it is, indeed, gone, but its loss isn't that big a deal. Although the hipsters and crazy Y ... More >>

  • Food

    June 17, 2010

    The California Challenge at Pepe's

    [Hole in the Wall] In which you will face a burrito of mythic proportions

  • Blogs

    July 21, 2010

    The Good, The Bad, The Stereotypical, and the Strange About Eating a Burrito in Toronto

    ​A gig as the master of ceremonies for the Association of Alternative Newsweeklies annual convention took me to Canada last week--specifically, Toronto. Dave raved about the West Indian food there, and I've long known Toronto offers one of the world's great multicultural mixes--but I was resigned ... More >>

  • Food

    July 22, 2010

    Cooling Off At Mariscos Mocorito

    [Hole In the Wall] Orange's new Sinaloan dive helps you attain an aguachile summer

  • Blogs

    August 4, 2010

    Taco Bell's Street-Inspired "Cantina Tacos"

    TacoBell.com​Thanks to our sister in crime Laura Shunk at Denver's Westword for bringing Taco Bell's new "Cantina Tacos" to our attention. We were apparently asleep at the switch, given that Gustavo, Edwin and I are huge proponents of street food, and this was happening right in our own backyard. ... More >>

  • Columns

    August 12, 2010

    Special Comida Edition

    [¡Ask a Mexican!] Where to get Mexican food in NY and how Mexis take their coffee

  • Food

    August 19, 2010

    Home Cooking at Taqueria Zamora

    [Hole In the Wall] Is this the most Mexican restaurant in OC?

  • Blogs

    August 25, 2010

    Against "Street Tacos"

    At least they didn't call them "cantina" tacos, I guess...​So the country is wild about street food right now, luxe-loncheras and the like, and I can live with that. Debate rages about what constitutes "authentic" Mexican food as opposed to the "fake" stuff, and I like debates like that.What I can ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 27, 2010

    #31. Enchilada Combo at Baja Fish Tacos

    Edwin Goei​We continue to countdown our 100 favorite dishes at local restaurants. We'll be sharing these with you every weekday until our annual Best Of Issue comes out. Enjoy! #31. Enchilada Combo at Baja Fish TacosThis choice only applies to the Baja Fish Tacos in Santa Ana, not so much the one ... More >>

  • Food

    September 9, 2010

    Puffy the Magic Taco

    [Hole In the Wall] Arturo's Puffy Tacos may be in Whittier, but La Habra loves it all the same

  • Blogs

    September 16, 2010

    ¡Ask a Comida Critic! Great Al Pastor Tacos?

    ​I have other, more pertinent questions in the queue, but since it's Mexican Independence Day, why not? From Facebook:Simple question: where can I get good al pastor tacos?Ah, al pastor: that most Mexican of meats--and by "most Mexican," I mean that it was actually Lebanese immigrants in Mexico th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 4, 2010

    Five Authentic Mexican Dishes That Would Make Rick Bayless Scream, Or: For an Aztlanista Approach to the Question of "Authenticity" in Mexican Cuisine

    Chico's Tacos in El Paso: The Most Mexican Restaurant in America​Rick Bayless came to and left Orange County last week, and none of Weeklings were able to attend, busy as we are with our normal lives (Dave, Edwin, and Shuji, their 9-to-5s; me, skinheads and pedo-priests). Sucks, because the battle ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 14, 2010

    ¡Ask a Comida Critic!: A Good Chimichanga?

    ​I love Avanti Cafe in Costa Mesa for its vegetarian-vegan treats, so the following question from server Dion surprised me:Where can I get a good chimichanga?Being Hispanic Heritage Month is o-vah tomorrow, what better way to end my recent run of Latino-themed questions than with a treatise on thi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 5, 2010

    Eat Here, Not There: Regular Flour Quesadilla

    Flickr user jamesg2​One meal I never buy, and get angry when those around me buy it, is a regular quesadilla. I'm not talking about a regional version (more on that in a bit), but the basic: flour tortilla melted with an American cheese--sometimes cheddar, sometimes Monterey Jack. There is no reas ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 9, 2010

    Five Mexican Dishes With a Crazy-Ass Use of Cheese that Aren't Nachos

    Got them for free, as does anyone who sits at this particular table...​This past Saturday was National Nachos Day, that legendary borderlands dish of tortilla chips, jalapeño and goops of cheese. The above picture are the nachos at El Cholo Cafe, Southern California's oldest Mexican restaurant an ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 22, 2010

    A Cure For Anti-Cemita-ism

    Dave Lieberman​If you're going to be a proper hole-in-the-wall hound around these parts, the first thing you've got to learn is that a great deal of the best food in Orange County comes not from restaurants or food trucks, but rather from sandwich counters in grocery stores.

  • Food

    November 25, 2010

    Mondo Molotes at the El Moctezuma Empire

    [Hole In the Wall] El Moctezuma Nos. 1, 2, and 3 all sell great Oaxacan food

  • Blogs

    November 26, 2010

    Comfort Food at El Pico de Gallo Taqueria

    Dave Lieberman​I'm sick of the word taquería. Seemingly every Mexican restaurant in these fair orange acres uses it to describe the food on offer, even when a place might better be described as a puesto, a fonda, a restaurante or a cenaduria. These shops do themselves a disservice, because while ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 26, 2010

    Rick LeBlanc of Rick's Atomic Cafe Goes On the Line, Part Recipe!

    Photo by Todd BarnesRick and his Friday​Here is the last part of our On the Line feature with Rick LeBlanc of Rick's Atomic Cafe in Costa Mesa. In this installment, he shares his vegetarian taco recipe. And, for the record: we do not hold it against him that he roots for the New England Patriots, ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 7, 2010

    Was 2010 the Year of the Fish Taco?

    Photo by Das Ubergeek​Like we've been fundamentally late to many food trends (cupcakes, Pinkberry, churrascarias), OC has pioneered food trends that the lot of us laugh at when reporters declare them suddenly "in"--bánh mìs (and Vietnamese food, in general), luxe-loncheras, and now...fish tacos? ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 10, 2010

    Eat Here, Not There: Chimichanga

    ​I've never truly understood the appeal of chimichangas, the fried burrito of the Arizona-Sonora region that made their way to Southern California in the 1930s. They're not bad, but I'm the type of guy that likes to grab his burrito, not slice it with a knife (exceptions, of course, for the smothe ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 15, 2010

    1928 Vegan Tamale Pie--Yes, It's Possible, Thanks to Avanti Cafe

    ​Earlier this summer, I issued Mark Cleveland of Avanti Cafe--perhaps the county's best practitioner of the vegan arts--a challenge. I gave him a copy of a recipe for tamale pie taken from a 1928 cookbook compiled by members of the Ebell Club of the Santa Ana Valley. I don't have the recipe in fro ... More >>

  • Food

    December 16, 2010

    Fond of Fonda La Meche

    [Hole In the Wall] Mexico City-style dishes abound in this tiny, homey Stanton dive

  • Blogs

    December 23, 2010

    ¡Ask a Comida Critic! Why Olives on Some Tamales, But Not All?

    ​Was waiting for someone to send me a query on tamales. From Elvia my Facebook amiga and fellow Chapman Panther: To olive or not to olive? I've bit into several red tamales so far this season and half of them surprise me with a huge black olive. My family does not add this to our corn husk lovelie ... More >>

  • Food

    January 6, 2011

    El Torito Founder Is Still the Big Enchilada

    Does 86-year-old Larry J. Cano, who spread sit-down Mexican dining across the U.S., have one more cuisine-changing idea in him?

  • Columns

    January 6, 2011

    Dumping In the Desert

    [¡Ask a Mexican!] Also, a racist tries to bait Gustavo, part MCMXLVIII

  • Blogs

    January 25, 2011

    Get This In Your Belly: Coloradito de Puerco at El Moctezuma #2

    Dave Lieberman​I've been to El Moctezuma many times. I'm slowly working my way through its menu of Oaxacan specialities such as memelas; tlayudas; huge, banana-leaf-wrapped tamales; and of course plenty of moles.Until we took a visiting Marylander for Oaxacan food last week, I had never had the co ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 27, 2011

    Gabacho Discs of Glory: Battle Grocery Store Flour Tortillas

    ​Last week, your intrepid Forkers received a pitch from a company called Circle Foods selling as Tortillaland and advertising the availability of fresh, uncooked tortillas in the local grocery store. The company's website is a depressing attempt to evoke vaguely Mexican imagery while selling such ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 2, 2011

    Taco Asylum Is Tasty--But Not the Taco Part

    Taco Asylum's homemade hot sauces, made from the world's two hottest peppers: a bit sludgy, could use more flavor given the heat overwhelms any discernable notes... ​"Okay, we need to remember that we are here objectively," said one of the Zambrano brothers behind Soho Taco. It wasn't Gabriel. Was ... More >>

  • Food

    March 3, 2011

    Taqueria Rigoberto's Is the Loncheros' Lonchera

    Eat like a taco-truck employee at this Santa Ana chef favorite

  • Blogs

    March 4, 2011

    A Mexican Dinner in 1890s Orange County with Madame Helena Modjeska

    Wikimedia CommonsThe caption says it all...​In doing general research for my book on the history of Mexican food in the United States, I've unearthed numerous accounts of non-Mexicans enjoying Mexican food for the first time, or quickly learning how to love the stuff. One of the earlier accounts I ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 24, 2011

    Battle Bad-Ass Chilaquiles: Amorelia Mexican Cafe vs. Taquería Zamora!

    Taquería Zamora's epic chilaquiles​My favorite breakfast after pozole is chilaquiles, that beautiful creation of beans, rice, eggs, crema, and tortilla strips of varying degrees of hardness--but it's one I rarely have outside my mother's kitchen. Far too many Mexican restaurants don't understand ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 29, 2011

    Five (Largely Inaccurate) Oxford English Dictionary Entries for Mexican Foods

    ​Last week, I reported on how the Oxford English Dictionary had just included "banh mi" into its august publication, a wonderful, surprising development. Also in the mix was "taquito," and that entry just pissed me off. Oh, I was happy that rolled, fried tacos finally received their due--but ... More >>

  • Food

    April 7, 2011

    Soho Is Where the Taco Is

    [Hole In the Wall] Reyna Market in Santa Ana is home to the Zambranos, the best taqueros in Orange County right now

  • Blogs

    April 7, 2011

    Ask a Comida Critic: Best Chile Relleno in OC?

    ​Someone actually asked this months ago, but it got lost in the pile along with my W-2 (eep!). Anyhoo, the query:What's the best chile relleno in Orange County?I must admit: I never order the dish. A chile relleno is never about subtlety; it's supposed be greasy, gooey, eggy, a glop to be mixed al ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 5, 2011

    Six Presidential Encounters with Mexican Food, Ranked from Best to Worst

    The only president that matters today...​So today is Cinco de Mayo blah blah blah blah. But instead of offering you places to drinko, your humble scribe likes learnin' people stuff, you know, the more arcane the better. So what more-random topic than a quick overview of American presidents and the ... More >>

  • Food

    May 19, 2011

    Taqueria Don Victor Makes You Taste the Baa

    [Hole In the Wall] At this Huntington Beach treasure, Hidalgo-style cookery shines

  • Blogs

    June 13, 2011

    Five Commonly Mispronounced Mexican Food Terms that Americans Shouldn't Mispronounce

    ​There was a time in our nation's history where Mexican restaurants--whether fast-food taco empires or El Torito Cal-Mex ambassadors--published pronunciation guides to aide customers in properly ordering their meals. Some of those places still exist, but you'd have to be an absolute pendejo in thi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 23, 2011

    #81: Quesadilla Chilanga at Alebrije's Grill

    ProfessorSalt.com​Since nobody could guess the exact name of last week's Guess Where dish, I'll tell you now. It's a quesadilla chilanga from the pink Alebrije's lonchera parked on Cubbon and Main Street in  Santa Ana. Some of you guessed almost right, but a quesadilla is not a taco,  no ... More >>

  • Food

    August 18, 2011

    Lupita's Is a PeeWee Pupusa Place

    [Hole In the Wall] The Costa Mesa dive specializes in Salvadoran and Guatemalan cuisine

  • Blogs

    September 8, 2011

    A Brief History of Tamales in Santa Ana

    ​You know that book about the history of Mexican food in the United States that I mention in every other post? I released a brief, brief preview of it in the Food section of today's Los Angeles Times, specifically on the tamale wagons that ruled the streets of Southern California in the late 1890s ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 19, 2011

    Five Things You're Doing Wrong With Mexican Food

    Flick user Ryan Leighty​We love Mexican food 'round here, and not just because I'm doing a book on the history of Mexican food in the United States. It's the native cuisine of Southern California, something many Americans have seamlessly assimilated into their day-to-day lives--and an easy subject ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 26, 2011

    Five Mexican-Food Empires Started By Americans Ripping Off Unnamed Mexicans

    One of the few cases in Mexican-food history in the US where a Mexi wasn't ripped off by gabachos...​Michelle posted earlier today about how the man credited with creating Fritos, former Frito-Lay executive, Arch West, just passed away in Dallas. First thing I told her? "The origin story for Dorit ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 17, 2011

    Chef Gabbi's Tamale Demo At Orange Farmers Market THIS SATURDAY

    Gabbi's Mexican KitchenGabbi's Market Tamales​The Christmas music is already playing at the mall, which means it's tamale-making season here in Southern California. This Saturday at 10:30 a.m., as part of the Chef Demo Series at the Orange Home Grown Farmers Market, Chef Gabbi Patrick of nearby Ga ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 30, 2011

    On the Line: Pedro Resendiz of Tamarindo Truck, Part Two

    Photo by Meranda Carter​Day two with Pedro Resendiz gets to the heart of what makes the Tamarindo Truck tick. We tie together family, life experiences and the menu, which differentiates the Resendizes' luxe lonchera from the rest. He also shares his thoughts on receiving criticism (and the importa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 14, 2011

    Where to Buy Tamales in Orange County this Christmas

    ​Because nothing exists on the Internet before three days ago, I'm reprinting a 2009 article I did on the best tamales in Orange County for the holidays--and I'm also ripping off a 2007 article I did on the same subject. I will also note that Gabbi's Mexican Kitchen and Taco María make great high ... More >>

  • Food

    December 22, 2011

    Tepache at El Chilango

    [Hole In the Wall] The Mexico City-style mini-chain serves the rare fermented-pineapple drink—yum!

  • More >>

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