You haven't really lived until you've sucked on raw crab. At the newest Koba Tofu Grill in Irvine, the spicy blue-crab dish called gae jang starts when the critter is hacked into pieces after it has been freshly killed. Cooks brush off the innards before burying the rest of the uncooked meat under a lava-red marinade as thick as mud, leaving the mess to ferment and pickle. You eat the results chilled, beginning by licking off that candy-sweet, mildly hot pepper paste, tonguing the crevasses for all traces of the flavorful goo. Once swabbed clean, you use your back teeth as a vice to crunch through the shell like our primordial ancestors might have done. Your fingers and the suction from your pursed lips become the force that separates meat from carapace. What you extract wiggles and jiggles, the sort of texture you associate with just-firmed Jell-O, slightly translucent and... More >>>