The way I see it, there are two kinds of sushi-eaters in this world: those who abhor rolls and those who adore them. By the same token, there are two kinds of sushi bars. On one end, you have Sushi Wasabi and its kin, bars fronted by ardent traditionalists who are insulted if someone so much as whispers “California roll” and who, like Sushi Wasabi’s Katsu Aoyagi, put it in writing to officially put the kibosh on such requests. You’ll always know you’re in the presence of a no-nonsense itamae such as Aoyagi because chances are he’s the reason you’re there. You come because his reputation precedes him. You come because it’s his expert hands that mold your artful... More >>>