The new Chianina Steakhouse in Long Beach didn't intend to operate this long without a permanent liquor license. Open since late December, a snafu with the California Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC) means it's still waiting for it (it's expected by early March). Until then, Chianina is stuck in steakhouse limbo—a special kind of fine-dining purgatory. When you eat there, you feel the palpable sense of anticipation in the air. All around there are signs the restaurant is stymied from being the steakhouse it wants to be. You enter through a glass archway of wine bottles that, at this point, function as little more than decoration. There's a gorgeous bar that occupies half the restaurant with dozens of spit-shined wine goblets and decanters on the shelves—but no bartender. Throughout the darkly lit, windowless dining room, you notice the odd sight of people eating what's probably one of the most expensive steak dinners in Long Beach, but with only water and iced... More >>>