The folks at Leadbelly's finally installed the lighted sign about three weeks ago, and it doesn't say "Leadbelly's Southern-Style Barbecue," which is its proper title; it just reads "Barbecue" because, well, what else do you need to know? Here, in this strip mall in a decidedly unhip part of Fullerton, you're not going bar-hopping at some trendy club; you're going for a tan under the sign that says "Tanning," for a rubdown at the one that says "Massage" or, best yet, for no-frills-no-nonsense barbecue at Leadbelly's. This is barbecue at its most sincere, the kind of mom-and-pop that thrives on word-of-mouth and charges prices so reasonable it's almost... More >>>