Unless you're one of those Chicken Charlie guys who deep-fry everything imaginable—even unimaginable—for a living, I bet you've never wondered what deep-fried hummus would taste like. But that's exactly what the chickpea fries at Lark Creek are. What this new restaurant from a group based in Northern California has done to hummus is so simple it's amazing more places—not even Chicken Charlie—don't do it. Mashed chickpeas are spread in a thin layer on a sheet pan, then refrigerated until they set. The chickpeas are then cut into strips, breaded, then gently fried until the finger-thick spears turn to a rigid crispness. When they arrived, they resembled doppelgangers for Carl's Jr.'s French toast sticks—golden-brown and served upright in a bowl as though they were actual pommes frites. As I ate, the insides liquefied on my tongue. There's a comforting polenta-like creaminess to them, but I realized as I dipped another one into the harissa aioli dipping sauce what I was actually eating: a... More >>>