Have you ever bitten into pickled mustard greens at 6:30 in the morning? Let me tell you: It's exhilarating. Orange juice has nothing on the gentle pungency this jade-green condiment possesses. Its purpose is the same as sauerkraut, but without the overpowering mouth-puckering sourness, yet it's still punchy enough to be a buzzing alarm clock in your mouth. You'll find it stuffed in a lot of things at the new Four Sea Restaurant in Irvine, but especially in a sandwich made from a flap of steamed-bun bread with a slice of fatty pork and a smear of coarsely ground sweetened peanuts. Momofuku's David Chang was probably inspired by such a sandwich when he created his now ubiquitously copied signature dish, but he doesn't use mustard greens—a shame because Four Sea's rendition makes you want more the... More >>>