A lovely loaf cradles the sausage sandwiches at Wild Goose Tavern. It's big and pillowy, thicker than the average hot-dog bun, and when you bite into the chewy, slightly yeasty roll, you realize you're eating real bread—something designed for this very purpose and with a substantial crust impermeable to liquids. This isn't the stuff you buy in bulk for Fourth of July, but rather a custom-crafted piece produced by Dean Kim at OC Baking Co. similar to those used to make proper Maine lobster rolls. The sausages wedged into them are also of enviable pedigree; some are said to have come from Mattern Sausage in Orange. But it's here, in this bar, that this bread and these sausages become... More >>>