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[UPDATED: Surfer Died of Heart Attack at San Onofre] Waves, Waves and Even Bigger Waves: Massive Swell is Here and Growing

[UPDATED: Surfer Died of Heart Attack at San Onofre] Waves, Waves and Even Bigger Waves: Massive Swell is Here and Growing
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly
UPDATE, SEPT. 7, 5:11 P.M.: According to a Orange County coroner's report, Russ Yamada died of a heart attack on Saturday afternoon, reports NBC Los Angeles. The 42-year-old Torrance resident had been surfing at a surf break called Old Man's in San Onofre State Park for over an hour when his body was discovered. Waves reached eight-feet that day at San Onofre, and bigger in other locations.

​UPDATE, SEPT. 6, 1:41 P.M.: Amongst the red flag wave conditions slamming the Southern California coastline during Labor Day weekend, a Torrance surfer was found unresponsive near his surfboard at San Onofre State Beach on Saturday. Russ Yamada, 42, was rushed to Saddleback Memorial Medical Center in San Clemente, but was declared dead an hour after being pulled from the water, according to numerous media outlets.

In an interview with Contra Costa Times, Yamada's sister-in-law said there was a bruise on the surfer's head when he was found. She indicated to the reporter that Yamada was an experienced surfer and strong swimmer.
Perfectly clear conditions for frightening waves.
Perfectly clear conditions for frightening waves.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly
Bodyboarders dominated the line-up, but surfers found a few steep drops.
Bodyboarders dominated the line-up, but surfers found a few steep drops.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly

No wave was quite like another.
No wave was quite like another.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly
Nathan Fletcher paddled out around 6:30 p.m. and the show became a whole lot more entertaining.
Nathan Fletcher paddled out around 6:30 p.m. and the show became a whole lot more entertaining.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly
After taming the 40-foot monsters in Tahiti a week prior, the Wedge was probably rather pedestrian for Fletcher.
After taming the 40-foot monsters in Tahiti a week prior, the Wedge was probably rather pedestrian for Fletcher.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly
If Surfline says it's big, it's big.
If Surfline says it's big, it's big.

ORIGINAL POST, SEPT. 1, 4:16 P.M.: The Weekly advises you to stay out of the water. If you've ventured anywhere near the coastline in the past 24 hours you have witnessed the power of Poseidon. Walls of water, measuring from six-feet up to 20-feet are plowing toward land, washing out parking lots and putting anyone in their way at risk.

This is the same swell that put a surf contest in Tahiti on hold. It was considered too big and dangerous for the world's best surfers, so it's safe to assume that it remains unsafe to 99 percent of the public (Greg and Rusty Long, Nathan Fletcher, Chuck Patterson and Corky Crandal's crew are probably safe to do as they please out in the ocean).

According to forecasts from Surfline, the swell, which began as a hurricane off the coast of New Zealand, is expected to increase through the rest of today and max-out tomorrow morning. The best exposed breaks are seeing or will see waves that are two- to three-times overhead, maybe even more.

If you have time to take a drive down Pacific Coast Highway, you'll see the results of the swell already. At Aliso Beach, during high tide this morning, the waves washed water into the parking lot, flooding the lot and forcing police to close access. At El Morro Beach, the public pathway under the highway has flooded. At Oak Street in Laguna Beach, surfers were sitting near a rock 150 yards off the coast, waiting for swells to break on an outside reef that only breaks during the largest of swells. And the Wedge in Newport Beach, well, it's every bit the spectacle that you'd imagine.

This is, indeed, the swell of the summer. Be smart on this one and just stay dry unless your ability and comfort-level in the ocean is advanced. Check back later for photographic evidence of the day's events.

A lot of water rolling right into the parking lot at Aliso Beach.
A lot of water rolling right into the parking lot at Aliso Beach.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly

Waves are rolling in up and down the coastline, including in Laguna Beach.
Waves are rolling in up and down the coastline, including in Laguna Beach.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly
Despite the size, surfers are trying to catch a few.
Despite the size, surfers are trying to catch a few.
Chasen Marshall/OC Weekly

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