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Yeh Won in Garden Grove is one of those Korean restaurants that never earns widespread buzz, but is always packed—though never so much there’s a long wait. It’s the type of place frequented by middle-aged men looking not for a pub, but rather for a long parade of cauldrons of soups, bubbling soontofu, sizzling cast-iron skillets of Korean barbecue, platters of dumplings, and enough tall bottles of Hite and Cass beers to fill up a recycling bin. Service can be slow—it’s just a husband, wife and their 20-some-year-old son—but the customers don’t care, as they either seem to be unwinding after a long day or catching up on the week. The trilingual menu (English, Korean and Vietnamese) itself is a greatest hits of Korean comfort food, usually with dueling options.