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Wild Goose is a sandwich restaurant in Costa Mesa. Their bread is big and pillowy, thicker than the average hot dog bun, and when you bite into the chewy, slightly yeasty roll, you realize you're eating real bread--something designed for this very purpose and with a substantial crust impermeable to liquids. This isn't the stuff you buy in bulk for Fourth of July, but a custom-crafted piece produced by Dean Kim at OC Baking Company that's similar to those used to make proper Maine lobster rolls. The sausages wedged into them are also of enviable pedigree. Some are said to have come from Mattern Sausage in Orange. But it's here, in this bar, that this bread and these tube steaks become one and become great. It's advisable to double up on the napkins for the Chicken Mole sausage.