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Ways & Means Oyster House is a seafood restaurant in Orange. You can get one of those shellfish towers here, appropriately named “King,” but expect to pay a king’s ransom for it. It sells for $85 as of this writing, but to be fair, the prices are about the going rates for similar towers at Mastro’s and other places in the county. But it forces you to take stock of where you are, in an A-frame building that used to house Spiros, a greasy spoon that served scrambled eggs for breakfast and fried chicken with frozen peas for supper. Now it hosts a chef whose website biography name-drops Boulud, Ducasse and Ripert. And then there’s that Michelin star Conrad Gallagher earned when he was 25, the youngest chap ever to do so.