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There’s a substance with which no Wahoo’s meal is complete: the wonderful chili paste called “Mr. Lee’s.” It’s named for the family patriarch and the only artifact that Wahoo’s shares with Shanghai Pine Garden, their parent’s Chinese restaurant on Balboa. This is real, unadulterated sambal. Like Midas, it turns everything it touches into gold. Wahoo’s tofu-centric Wafu bowl, in particular, becomes a willing and blank canvas for liberal slathers of the complex flavor and depth of this paste. When Mr. Lee’s is on the job, the Tapatio bottle will be left untouched.