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Varsity Burgers is everything a postmodern burger joint should be. Photos of sports icons-Muhammad Ali, Oscar de la Hoya-share wall space with group shots of youth teams. There are burgers, of course: luscious quarter-pounders topped with cheese, chili, bacon, many sauces, or-in the case of the Colossal Burger-pastrami shavings glued together with melted Swiss cheese. And the Mexican food ain't that bad.