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Adam Fleischman does not squander the term “umami.” The man who wasn’t trained as a cook nor been to Japan before he conceived of the concept has created what’s arguably the most umami-rich sandwich per square inch. The burger patty is purported to have secret ingredients that amps up the umami quotient. Perhaps more important is the way the in-house grind is cooked—medium rare, but to a browned, crunchy sear where meat meets griddle. It’s also paradoxical in its existence. The patty is juicy but inordinately neat; loosely packed but with a structural integrity that holds it together just until you take the next bite. The bun, a sweet brioche that shines as though it’s been buffed and waxed, is branded with a prominent “U” and toasted patiently to crisp-up its butter-swiped bottoms. Only In-N-Out does its buns better.