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Meng Tang's noodle joint operates in a fevered state of controlled chaos. It is an unapologetic dive. You're liable to step on scraps of food as you walk through the place or get bumped by the busboy's cleaning cart when you're seated. Most often, if you come alone or are in a small party, you will be asked to share a table with strangers. All will be slurping the hu tieu nam vang, noodles swimming in a marvelous, soul-nourishing, golden nectar wrung from the bones of bird and hog. MSG is probably involved as a flavor enhancer, but so are floating bits of fried garlic that explode in bursts.