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Tootsie is an ice-cream shop in Santa Ana. It does what ice cream is supposed to do, serving safe flavors everyone can relate to in familiar formats (waffle or sugar cone, cup or sandwich) and even shaved ice. The one exception is the marvel that is saffron-pistachio ice cream, an electric thing that combines the zip of the Persian flavor with the ice cream’s chill to create the best brain freeze of the summer. It reflects everything co-owner Kay Ayanzi promises—and isn’t it such an awesome reflection of modern-day Orange County that in this squabbling town, Tootsie's saffron ice cream sells out again and again and again?