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From the day Tommy Pastrami began piling sliced meat onto bread in 2005 at the first Santa Ana location, success was a lock. Recently, the nicest-looking Tommy franchise debuted across from the Ronald Reagan Federal Building with a full bar and a posh dining room. The Reuben remains massive and glorious. Sauerkraut, cheese and a slathering of Russian dressing fatten up what is already a teetering stack of meat on rye. Layered tall in neat folds of crimson tinged with black, the pastrami lords over all else.