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At THE RANCH, don't expect to see mass-produced baked potato in foil. Unless you really want to, there's no need to order any side dishes. Contrary to the typical a la carte steakhouse menu, Rossi puts out composed and complete plates. He cooks his New York steak perfectly to temperature, slices it into thick squares, and lays them down like fallen dominoes atop a fingerling potato saute made salty and sharp by house-made pancetta and Shropshire blue cheese. It's an assertive dish that calls for an assertive wine, maybe a cab, something to hit your tongue’s reset button so that you can continue to eat it with impunity. Round up Happy Hour from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.