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In the evolutionary time line of bars, the Pint House blazes its own path. It calls itself "an upscale American-style pub and restaurant without an upscale price," but let us translate: It's more Cheers than Moe's Tavern, more burger joint than gastropub. Regulars, or maybe those crazy college kids from nearby Fullerton College, order the Power Tower, an oversized beer dispenser the height and shape of a gigantic lava lamp. The house-baked soft pretzels are the defining mouthful of the night; the twisty, well-browned doughy loops are the natural symbiotic partner to anything hop-based you should drink. So oven-hot they burn the epidermis off your fingertips and crusted with perhaps too much salt, they will, as in that oft-quoted Seinfeld episode, make you thirsty.