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The Past Memories' yogurt soju is just as it sounds-a drink initially as harmless as breast milk since it's made with that yogurty soft drink popular with Asian children, Calpico or some Korean facsimile of it. Poured into shot glasses and swigged, it's inordinately easy to drink. Each sip is only weakly alcoholic, tasting of Squirt and skim milk, and sweetly soothing, especially when your tongue has been lashed by too much spicy kimchi. But factor in more food (especially the fried chicken), the cajoling company of friends, and the 2 a.m. closing time, and its slowly mounting effects can be easily underestimated until "The Past Memories" becomes more than just the restaurant's name.