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Everything at the Capital Grille at South Coast Plaza follows the expensive-steakhouse rulebook. Temperature-controlled, glass-encased wine lockers constitute rooms in and of themselves surround you. In the hallways hang paintings of long-dead aristocratic types, appropriate for hunting lodges, Gothic mansions and places like this. But turn your attention to the porcini-rubbed Delmonico steak, which made its entrance sporting a swoop of bone that might as well be a meat handlebar should you decide to succumb to your latent Neanderthal urges. One of the most expensive cuts at $45 a pop, its acreage, a square foot if it's a mile, is exactly as you expect. Not fork-tender and not entirely sinew-free, each bite you chomp offers equal parts fat, meat and char.