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The Big Catch Seafood in Long Beach is the kind of place where long communal butcher-block tables are covered in paper and forks and knives are supplied but hardly used. Yes, it's another in the new breed of seafood restaurant that eschews high prices for value and accessibility. But it's even more than this. The Big Catch is a true innovator of the genre. Look at its Cajun-fried rice, which is't some lazy rendition, but a real, honest-to-goodness wok-tossed masterpiece of breathtaking skill that manages to merge everything that’s good about Chinese fried rice with the flavor and soul of jambalaya. There’s a little egg, some scallions, bell peppers, plump shrimp, and pieces of squid and sausage between paprika-tinged rice grains that remain separate but never dry or oily. And with the rest of its menu, the Big Catch makes the hard task of cooking seafood look easy.