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Jose "El Cuatro" Martínez's method of preparing chicken is as miraculous as Mass. He soaks his hens in lemon butter before slapping them onto the open-fire grill. He then shakes tremendous amounts of chile powder onto the meat and grills them until crisp, the lemon and powder fusing on the chicken and seeping through the tender meat to the bone. The result is mysterious: soft, slightly smoky, and exuding a sour/spicy crackle that's nearly radioactive.