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The all-you-can-eat Korean BBQ at Surah is an endeavor that demands steely commitment, stretchy pants, and at least two other people to go with you. The last part is a real requirement. Though couples are welcome to try it the rest of the week, the restaurant won’t allow any fewer than three people per party to do it if it’s a Saturday. You need the support. Unlike regular buffets where it’s everyone for themselves, this meal requires a team effort. Pluck the gal bi off the griddle still sizzling, the fat rippling from the heat as you eat, the morsels bursting juice in your mouths. Then nibble on panchan, traditional side dishes essential to the Korean meal. Surah puts out no less than a dozen varieties, each small saucer capable of becoming a meal onto itself if a bowl of rice were supplied. There will be sardines and boiled daikon covered in a throat-constricting adobe red chile paste. There will be a canary yellow square of something potato, a sort of a cross between a chilled potato salad and a casserole. Then scrape squiggly meat off the tiny marinated clams on the half-shell and slurp some cooling cubes of gelatin marinated in soy sauce and scallions before eating more meat, and more meat, and more meat.