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As Cambodia borders Thailand, the cuisines naturally share commonalities, which is why Sophy's uses Thai in its name. But make no mistake: Its roots are Khmer. Sophy's is arguably more faithful to its food culture than other Cambodia Town restaurants, which mostly mix in Chinese dishes for the purposes of hosting wedding banquets. So don't be surprised when, before you know it, you're tearing the Cambodian beef jerky into ragged strips and chomping down on the sadao, a plant that looks as demure as baby's breath but packs a knee-buckling quinine astringency.