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Song Long’s bánh mì choices are fine: salty sardines, smoky grilled pork, a savory pate. But Song Long is one of those Vietnamese bakeries where the art of French-inspired pastries is the true treat, and one only needs to eat a couple of pate chauds to wish the French occupation stayed around a bit longer. Think of the puff pastry as the best pot pie this side of Iowa: flaky, buttery, with piping-hot pate in the center, twirled around so it looks like one of those ziggurats-in-progress you remember from your elementary-school history. The sweet croissants—almond, strawberry, chocolate, raisin—sing with sweetness and possess a flakiness similar to the pate chaud, one almost as delicate as silk.