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SOL Cocina's chipotle-piloncillo goat cheese speaks to what this Mexican restaurant is about. Consisting of a dense scoop of the Philly-like cheese, it's surrounded by a spicy, dark-caramel syrup made of melted piloncillo, the traditional raw brown sugar of Mexico largely unknown to Americans. The sauce culled from it will seduce you-simultaneously hot, sweet, complex, and worldly, like Salma Hayek as Frida Kahlo. The carnitas that filled the tacos came from Kurabuta pig and the beef, from antibiotic and hormone-free Meyer Angus cattle. Only in Newport Beach would the taco meat contain fewer additives than the residents.