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Walk into Shin-Sen-Gumi in Fountain Valley, and you're greeted loudly with a sing-songy shout of welcome (or victory?) at this legendary ramen spot. SSG, as the regulars call it, serves only a macho, tonkotsu ramen the color of Mom's pork chops and as comforting as a blanket on a cold night. Serving Kyushu-style ramen, clear and fatty and wonderful, it might not resemble the kind of ramen you ate in your college days, but once you get into the cult, you'll find yourself often indulging in a bowl of great ramen, a plate of crisp-bottomed gyoza and a Sapporo draft, just like you did in your college days.