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Seasons 52 is best when it does everything it can to hide its 475-calories-or-less m.o. And on most dishes, it does it well. The char-kissed sea scallops-framed by criss-crossed spears of asparagus, with chewy pellets of pearl pasta anchoring the center-has a sauce that's lightly citrusy and barely there. But it's the sauce that brings the dish some unity.