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Sea Smoke is a risky departure for Takashi Abe of Bluefin fame: It's a big, boisterous family restaurant. But you'll still find flashes of Bluefin's cuisine in dishes like his scallop and uni ravioli. It's sea urchin roe sandwiched between raw scallop, served in a shimmering puddle of basil oil, and crowned with caviar and gold leaf. Order it before you ask for the teriyaki chicken.