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Renataâ€™s is a cafe at war with itself, knowing they must hew to the sub-spaghetti-fettucine-lasagna cartel in order to ensure the rent; those dishes, while fine, are better made elsewhere and cheaper. So stick to the dishes unfamiliar to our American knowledge of Italian food. While polenta is somewhat known, itâ€™s definitely not usually conceived of as Renataâ€™s polenta romana, perfectly formed blocks of the stuff standing over a shallow pool of a creamy sauce spiked with what tasted like Chiantiâ€”spectacular. Thereâ€™s also a pasta dish, name unfamiliar to the Italian-American restaurant canon, with chunks of pancetta crisped like chicharronesâ€”amazing.