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Ramen Zetton is a Japanese restaurant in Costa Mesa. It’s the most hidden member of Costa Mesa’s Ramen Row, wedged into the same obscure strip mall the Huddle calls home. It’s barely open for lunch, then reopens again for dinner for a spell, its four tables and counter perpetually occupied with people slurping down ramen in various manifestations: spicy, with more pork, more veggies, more whatever the customer wants. I’m not one of those ramen purists who swear by the fat content in a particular broth or where the pork is sourced from, but these are honest bowls that work wonders against all the ailments of the human condition.