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Ramen Yamadaya is a Japanese restaurant iN Costa Mesa. Its tonkotsu ramen is the closest thing to melting a whole pig into a bowl. It is unabashed and unequaled in its porkiness. The broth is so thick and so rich, the viscosity is closer to 10W-30 motor oil than anything else out there in the market. Nothing in the ramen-rich kingdom of Costa Mesa quite prepares you for the soup this most recent import from LA pour's not Daikokuya's comparatively light-weighted bowls; not Kohryu's scorched scallion-flecked broths; not even Santouka's venerable but always-too-salty brews. Compared to Yamadaya's broth, all other tonkotsu-style soups will seem like skim milk.