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Ramen Yamadaya’s tonkotsu ramen is the closest thing to melting a whole pig into a bowl. It is unabashed and unequaled in its porkiness. The broth is so thick and so rich, the viscosity is closer to 10W-30 motor oil than anything else out there in the market. Nothing in the ramen-rich kingdom of Costa Mesa quite prepares you for the soup this most recent import from LA pours—not Daikokuya’s comparatively light-weighted bowls; not Kohryu’s scorched scallion-flecked broths; not even Santouka’s venerable but always-too-salty brews. Compared to Yamadaya’s broth, all other tonkotsu-style soups will seem like skim milk. On the one-page menu, Ramen Yamadaya’s hog concentrate is advertised as being cooked for 20-hours. Believe it. After the lengthy simmer to unlock the collagen and extract all of the piggy essence and every molecule of flavor from pork bones, the result is a soup so weighty that if the noodles, egg and slices of roast pork were taken away, the liquid alone would still constitute a really heavy meal.