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What Ra Sushi and sushi bars of its ilk have done for the sushi is the same as what chop suey houses did for Chinese food at the turn of the century: it took what once foreign and weird and turned it accessible and decidedly domestic. The restaurant is as much about the beer and cocktails as it is about raw fish. And pretty soon, with the aid of alcohol and the presence of cajoling friends, the sushi-averse will move from the California roll to the nigiri. The best time to visit is also the busiest: Ra, if nothing else, is one of the best places in town to get Happy Hour, with generous discounts on booze and a good representative sampling of their regular menu.