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This is the best pho in Orange County, bar none. Thanh Lich's broth is brown with the drippings of beef, fragrant of star anise, teasing with cinnamon. The cuts-whether smoky brisket, fatty tendon, or luscious tripe-taste as if they were just shaved off a steer. Cooking in the boiling soup, the broth becomes even more concentrated-and that's before the inclusion of lime, jalapeños, Thai basil, sharp ngo gai, and all the other herbs that ratchet the broth from extraordinary to transcendent. And that beef! Each brisket slice has a length of fat as thick and pale as the whitewalls on a Corvette; each tendon begs a slurp, each tripe slice an extra chew.