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Pho Song Hai in Westminster prepares its chicken Hai Nam style, meaning the bird is poached, then refrigerated, then served cold on a plate separate from the pho, skin and bone and all. The skin turns into jellied strips of fat; the flesh is shockingly milky, smooth and wonderful. It comes with a ginger nuoc mam so thick it’s almost like applesauce, reeking and electric. That’s house-made, along with a hot sauce I’ve never seen anywhere else in Little Saigon: made from Thai bird peppers, the concoction is orange-red, slightly oily and has a deceptive burn that accentuates the ginger nuoc mam to make the best tag team since the Hart Foundation.