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With a menu as beautiful as chef Massimo's creation for Onotria, it's best to go "soup to nuts"-which means trying every course from appetizer to dessert. Maybe start with some creamy lobster and market fish chowder, then some steamed asparagus with barrel-aged Cheddar and black-truffle sauce. Next, perhaps a mallard duck breast with fresh herbs and a Santa Rosa plum sauce. And you should probably end with the poached pear in Barolo wine with vanilla-mascarpone creme. A meal like this would cost about $60, and that's not including wine-Onotria touts itself as "wine country cuisine" and lays claim to a jaw-dropping selection-but that's why someone else is paying, right?