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Consider yourself inordinately lucky if you are seated in front of Shige, who is perhaps the most affable sushi chef you'll ever meet, with a striking resemblance to a Japanese Ray Romano and a talent to rival that of the raw fish artisans at Shibucho, Sushi Wasabi and Ikko. His omakase ranks as one of the most reasonable in OC: Starting at $25 for eight pieces, it's a bargain for the quality of the fish and the meticulous care Shige uses to cut and diamond score each morsel, molding it over perfectly portioned bullets of warm rice. To prep his lustrous sea bream, he sprinkles a few grains of sea salt and spritzes yuzu juice from a spray bottle. To finish his black cod, he caramelizes the edges under the whooshing jet of a blowtorch. He offers no soy sauce; it will never be required.