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Nimroz in Lake Forest has a menu that is small, and mostly devoted to tried-and-true kabobs, but it’s the Afghan specialties that deserve the long, lonely drive up to the city. Meals start with a complimentary cup of aush, a chilled chickpea soup heavy on the dill, chutney, mint, and chili flakes, a icy-hot combo as electrifying as aguachile. All Afghan meals need an order of mantu, the country’s legendary dumplings, fat, beef-filled twirls filled topped with yogurt, meat sauce, and laced by more of their green chutney. An order of mantu will leave you stuffed, so better to come here with three pals to split it and then head on to Nimroz’s jewel: Qabili pallow, a mountain of brown rice containing steamed carrot slivers, raisins, and pistachios hiding lamb chunks.