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At first glance, Myung In's Korean rendition of the steamed bun would seem much like others you've seen at dim sum. It's only when you notice the man making them right behind the cash register of this food-court stall that you realize these will be something special. Labor-intensive as all hell and carefully coddled, what's brought out to you will be so fresh they can't be handled for the better part of two minutes. When you can't wait any longer, you bite into one and find it's still scorching. But it's the dough you'll marvel over: Moist but not damp, there's a lightness to it, an airy puffiness akin to a cloud. This is as perfect a texture as you've ever had-proof that when it comes to bread, whether oven-baked or steamed, freshness makes all the difference.