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Mirak is a gorgeous little spot in a long-abandoned shopping plaza that’s finally getting converted into a Korean hub, the better to draw attention to the restaurant’s cult of black goat. Most of the eaters here take it one of two ways: as a stew, or in an angry casserole that crisps the meat the longer it stays. The stew is brought to your table, bubbling and fierce, covered with a jungle of sesame leaves. It’s a funky, stinky, glorious mess, ideal for the winter―but that goat casserole is better, enjoined by sesame leaves, green and white onions, and jalapeños, all of which eventually caramelize into sweet, pungent perfection.