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This is the most proudly provincial restaurant in Little Arabia. Try the koushari, the Egyptian equivalent of Rice-a-Roni: a rice pilaf of lentils and chickpeas topped with macaroni, spaghetti and enough fried onions to make a hamburger stand proud. You dump marinara sauce onto the plate, along with a curious garlic sauce that’s like an incredibly pungent vinaigrette—the Mediterranean on a heaping plate. But there are so many dishes to try: the fava-bean appetizers enlivened with jalapeños; stuffed, roasted dove; anise and fenugreek teas. There’s even an entire section devoted to the dishes of the Khaleeji, the Arab states on the Persian Gulf.