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The "soul" in the title isn't misleading, but it's worth noting that the food at the mini-chain's darker, cozier, original location is as carefully thought-out as it is deeply felt. Catfish and po'boys will satisfy no matter who's in the kitchen: The fried catfish bears a perfect ratio of juiciness to crunch, and the po'boy dribbles onto your shirt the exact amount of horseradish mayo the cooks intended. The cornbread, made by the Gypsy Den next door, packs an irresistibly crumbly sweetness. If there's a special that sounds good, order it. The minds behind Memphis have figured out that that if they keep the best stuff limited-time-only, curiosity will keep you coming back-not that you wouldn't do so whenever a cornbread craving strikes.