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Mariscos El Yaqui is a relative rarity in the county: a Baja California-style lonchera that goes beyond tacos to serve food that actual natives eat outside resort towns and surfer spots. The shrimp and fish tacos are fine, but much better are those made with marlin, its ruddy flesh smoky and sweet and bound to the tortilla with a combination of melted cheese and a crema that splits the difference between sour cream and aioli. The ceviche is delicious, but better to order it in the form of aguachile—traditionally a Sinaloan specialty, but assimilated over the years into the Baja California diet due to the state’s across-the-Sea-of-Cortez proximity to Sinaloa. Here, it’s as hellish and puckering as anything available. Much better are the seafood empanadas, fried to order, the masa airy and delicate.